Pots and Planters Guide

Pots and Planters Guide

I used to think pots were just containers to hold soil. Pick something cute, stick your plant in it, water when you remember, and call it a day. Then I killed three pothos in a row (yes, the “unkillable” plant), and I realized I was doing everything wrong. Turns out, the pot you choose matters just as much as the soil or the light. Maybe more.

So let me walk you through what I wish someone had told me when I started this hobby. This is not about aesthetics. This is about keeping your plants alive.

Terracotta vs. Plastic pots

When I first got into plants, I bought whatever looked good. I had a phase where everything went into white ceramic pots because they matched my apartment. Big mistake. Half my plants got root rot because those pots had zero drainage and held water like a bathtub.

Now I stick to two main types: terracotta and plastic. Each has a purpose, and understanding when to use which one has saved me so much trouble.

Terracotta is porous clay. It breathes. Water evaporates through the sides of the pot, not just the top of the soil. This is incredible for plants that hate wet feet. My succulents, snake plants, and ZZ plants all live in terracotta because I have a bad habit of overwatering. The clay dries out faster, which means I can water more often without drowning them. The University of Maryland Extension notes that terracotta’s porosity helps prevent waterlogged soil, which is the main cause of root rot in houseplants.

The downside? Terracotta dries out fast. If you have a thirsty plant like a fern or a calathea, terracotta will make your life harder. You will be watering every other day in the summer. Also, terracotta gets crusty. You will see white mineral deposits on the outside over time. It is not harmful, but it does not look great.

Plastic pots hold moisture much longer. They are not porous, so water only escapes through the drainage hole and by evaporation from the soil surface. This makes them perfect for plants that like consistent moisture. My pothos, philodendrons, and peace lily all live in plastic nursery pots. I can water once a week and not worry.

Plastic is also lightweight, which matters if you move plants around a lot or have them on shelves. A six-inch terracotta pot full of wet soil is heavy. A plastic one is not.

The problem with plastic is that it is easier to overwater. If you are like me and tend to water on a schedule instead of checking the soil, plastic pots will drown your plants. You have to be more careful.

I use terracotta for anything that likes to dry out between waterings. I use plastic for everything else. It is that simple. Do not overthink it.

Using cache pots correctly

A cache pot is a decorative outer pot with no drainage hole. You put your plant (in its boring plastic nursery pot) inside the pretty cache pot. This is how you get the aesthetic without killing your plant.

I cannot tell you how long it took me to figure this out. I kept replanting things directly into cute pots from HomeGoods, wondering why they kept dying. Turns out, standing water at the bottom of a pot with no drainage is a death sentence.

Here is how I use cache pots now. I keep my plants in their plastic nursery pots. When I water, I take the plant to the sink, water it thoroughly, let it drain completely, and then put it back in the cache pot. This takes an extra two minutes, but it has cut my plant deaths in half.

The mistake people make is watering the plant while it sits in the cache pot. Water pools at the bottom where you cannot see it. The roots sit in that water. Root rot starts. The plant dies. You think you are a terrible plant parent. You are not. You just did not know about the drainage issue.

If you really want to plant directly into a pot with no drainage (I do not recommend this, but I know some of you will do it anyway), you need to create a false drainage layer. Put a layer of rocks or pebbles at the bottom, then add soil and your plant. The idea is that water collects below the roots instead of around them. Honestly, this does not work as well as people claim. I have tried it. The roots eventually grow down into the water layer. Just use a cache pot.

One more thing: make sure your nursery pot fits properly in the cache pot. If it is too small, it will tip over. If it is too big, you will have to wrestle it in and out every time you water. Measure before you buy.

Above: A close up look at the symptoms.

Why drainage holes are mandatory

Let me be blunt: if a pot does not have a drainage hole, it is not a pot. It is a decorative object. Do not plant directly into it unless you want to gamble with your plant’s life.

I know there are tutorials online about planting in containers without drainage. I know people say they do it successfully. Maybe they do. But for every person who can keep a plant alive in a sealed pot, there are ten of us who cannot. The risk is not worth it.

Here is what happens without drainage. You water your plant. The water saturates the soil. Excess water has nowhere to go, so it sits at the bottom. The roots at the bottom of the pot are now submerged. Roots need oxygen. They cannot get it when they are sitting in water. They start to rot. The rot spreads upward. By the time you notice the plant is struggling (yellowing leaves, drooping, musty smell), the root system is already compromised.

I killed a beautiful monstera this way. I put it in a gorgeous ceramic pot I found at a thrift store. No drainage hole, but I was careful with watering. Or so I thought. Three months later, the leaves started turning yellow. I pulled it out, and the roots were black mush. I tried to save it. I could not.

The North Carolina State University Extension explains that drainage is essential because it prevents anaerobic conditions in the soil, which lead to root diseases and fungal growth. Basically, your soil needs to breathe, and water needs an exit route.

If you find a pot you love but it has no hole, you have two options. One, use it as a cache pot. Two, drill a hole yourself. You can drill through ceramic and terracotta with a masonry bit. I have done this. Go slow, use water to keep the bit cool, and wear safety glasses. It is easier than you think.

Do not skip drainage. It is the single most important feature of a pot.

Pot size guide

I used to repot my plants into huge pots because I thought I was giving them room to grow. Wrong. Oversize pots cause more problems than they solve.

When a pot is too big, the soil stays wet for too long. The roots cannot absorb all the moisture, so it just sits there. This creates the same problem as no drainage: root rot. Plants grow their roots outward to search for water. If water is everywhere, the roots do not develop properly. They get lazy.

The rule I follow now: go up one pot size when you repot. If your plant is in a four-inch pot, move it to a six-inch pot. Not an eight-inch. Not a ten-inch. Just one size up.

How do you know when to repot? I check once a year, usually in spring. I gently pull the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. If they are circling the bottom or growing out of the drainage holes, it is time. If there is still plenty of soil visible and the roots are not packed, I leave it alone.

Some plants like being root-bound. Snake plants, pothos, and spider plants do not mind tight quarters. I have a snake plant that has been in the same pot for three years. It is fine. My fiddle leaf fig, on the other hand, needs more space every year because it grows fast.

Pot size also affects watering frequency. A small pot dries out faster than a large pot. If you travel a lot or forget to water, a slightly larger pot gives you more buffer time. But do not go overboard. An eight-inch pot for a four-inch plant is asking for trouble.

One more thing: the pot should be proportional to the plant. A tall plant in a tiny pot will tip over. A small plant in a giant pot looks ridiculous and will probably die. Trust your eyes on this one.

Above: The tools you need to fix this.

Cleaning old pots

I reuse pots all the time. I buy plants from the nursery, repot them at home, and keep the nursery pots for future use. I also pick up terracotta pots at thrift stores because they are cheap. But you cannot just stick a new plant in a dirty old pot. You will transfer diseases, pests, and mineral buildup to your new plant.

Cleaning pots is not glamorous, but it is necessary. Here is my process.

First, I scrape out any old soil. I use a stiff brush or an old knife to get the crusty bits off the sides. If the pot has been sitting outside or in storage, there might be dried roots, algae, or bug debris. All of that has to go.

Next, I wash the pot with hot soapy water. I use dish soap and a scrub brush. I get into all the cracks and the drainage hole. This removes most of the grime and any loose pathogens.

Then comes the disinfecting step. I mix one part bleach to nine parts water and soak the pots for at least ten minutes. The University of Minnesota Extension recommends this ratio to kill bacteria, fungi, and pests without damaging the pot material. After soaking, I rinse the pots thoroughly with clean water. I mean thoroughly. You do not want bleach residue touching your plant’s roots.

For terracotta pots with heavy mineral buildup (that white crusty stuff), I soak them in a vinegar solution instead. One part white vinegar to four parts water. Let them sit for a few hours, then scrub with a brush. The acid breaks down the mineral deposits. Rinse well after.

After washing, I let the pots air dry completely before using them. Wet pots can harbor mold or bacteria even after cleaning.

I know this sounds like a lot of work. It is. But I only do it when I am repotting, which is maybe twice a year. And it is worth it. I used to skip this step, and I dealt with recurring fungus gnat problems and mysterious plant illnesses. Now I clean everything, and those issues have mostly disappeared.

If you get pots from a thrift store or a garage sale, definitely clean them before use. You have no idea what was planted in them before or what diseases might be lurking.

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Pots are not just decorative. They are part of your plant care system. Use the right material, make sure there is drainage, size appropriately, and keep them clean. These are not exciting tips, but they work. My plants are healthier now than they have ever been, and I am not doing anything fancy. I just stopped ignoring the basics.

References

University of Maryland Extension. (n.d.). Container Gardening. Retrieved from https://extension.umd.edu/programs/agriculture-food-systems/program-areas/ornamental-horticulture/container-gardening

North Carolina State University Extension. (n.d.). Container Drainage. Retrieved from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/

University of Minnesota Extension. (n.d.). Cleaning and Disinfecting Pots and Tools. Retrieved from https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/