How to Propagate Monstera: A Step-by-Step Guide

I killed my first Monstera cutting. Well, “killed” might be dramatic, but it rotted in a jar on my kitchen counter while I watched it turn into brown mush over three weeks. I thought propagating plants was supposed to be easy. Everyone on the internet made it look so simple: snip, plop in water, wait for roots, done.

Turns out I had no idea what I was actually cutting. I just grabbed scissors and went for it somewhere in the middle of a stem. No node. No aerial root. Just a sad leaf that never stood a chance.

After that disaster, I spent hours reading university extension articles and watching videos from actual horticulturists instead of just pretty Instagram reels. Now I have four Monsteras that all started as cuttings, and I have not lost one since I learned what I was doing. If you are thinking about propagating your Monstera, I want to save you from my mistakes.

Identifying the node and aerial root

This is where I went wrong the first time. A node is not just any bump on the stem. It is the specific point on the stem where leaves, roots, and new growth emerge. On a Monstera, nodes are pretty easy to spot once you know what you are looking for. They appear as slight swellings or rings around the stem, and there is usually a leaf or leaf scar attached right at that point.

The easiest way I explain it to friends is this: trace your finger down the stem from a leaf. Right where that leaf connects to the main stem, you will feel a little joint or knobby section. That is your node. Every cutting needs at least one node to survive. Without it, you just have a leaf, and a leaf alone cannot grow roots or new stems. According to research from the University of Florida’s Environmental Horticulture Department, nodes contain meristematic tissue, which is basically the plant’s growth center. No node means no ability to generate new tissue.

Aerial roots are different but related. These are the brown, root-like structures that grow out from the nodes and dangle in the air (hence the name). In nature, Monsteras are climbing plants that use these aerial roots to grab onto trees and pull themselves upward. They also absorb moisture from humid air. You do not technically need an aerial root to propagate, but it makes the process much faster and more reliable.

When I take a cutting now, I always look for a section of stem that has both a node and at least one aerial root. The aerial root gives the cutting a head start because it is already structured to absorb water. Sometimes these roots are just tiny nubs, and that is fine. Even a half-inch aerial root will help.

Here is what you need to do: find a stem section with one or two leaves, at least one node, and ideally an aerial root. Using clean scissors or pruning shears (I wipe mine with rubbing alcohol), cut about an inch below the node. You want some stem below the node so you have room to work with when you pot it later. If your cutting has a long stem above the node too, that is okay, but it is not necessary.

Water propagation vs. soil propagation

People get weirdly intense about which method is better. I have done both, and honestly, each has trade-offs.

Water propagation is what most beginners start with because it is satisfying to watch. You stick your cutting in a jar of water, place it somewhere with bright indirect light, and you can literally see the roots growing day by day. I keep my water propagation jars on a shelf near an east-facing window. The key is changing the water every few days to prevent bacterial buildup. I use filtered water because my tap water has a lot of chlorine, but room-temperature tap water that has sat out overnight works too.

The downside to water propagation is transplant shock. Roots that develop in water are structurally different from roots that grow in soil. They are more delicate and adapted to constant moisture. When you move a water-rooted cutting into soil, it has to adjust, and sometimes the roots struggle or even die back before new soil roots take over. This does not mean the plant will die, but it can stall growth for a few weeks. North Carolina State University Extension notes that water roots lack the tiny root hairs that soil roots develop for nutrient absorption, which is why the transition can be rough.

Soil propagation skips that adjustment period. You take your cutting, stick it directly into moist potting mix, and let it root in the medium where it will eventually live. I use a mix of regular potting soil, perlite, and a little orchid bark to keep things airy. The cutting does not need fertilizer at this stage. Just moisture and patience.

The challenge with soil propagation is that you cannot see what is happening underground. You have to trust the process. I check for roots by giving the cutting a very gentle tug after three weeks. If I feel resistance, roots are forming. If it just pulls right out, it needs more time.

So which should you choose? If you are new to this and want the confidence of watching roots grow, go with water. If you are comfortable with a bit of uncertainty and want to avoid transplant shock, go with soil. I do water propagation in winter when I need a little greenery to stare at, and I do soil propagation in spring when I am busy and cannot be bothered to change water every few days.

Detail view of the plant problem Above: A close up look at the symptoms.

How long does it take to grow roots?

This depends on so many factors that I stopped trying to predict it. Temperature, light, humidity, and the health of the cutting all play a role.

In my experience, water propagation usually shows tiny root nubs within one to two weeks if conditions are right. By “right,” I mean temperatures around 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit and bright indirect light. My kitchen stays pretty warm, so my cuttings root faster there than in my bedroom, which is cooler.

Soil propagation takes longer to confirm because you cannot see underground. I usually wait about three to four weeks before checking. Some sources from the University of Georgia Extension suggest that root development in soil can actually happen just as fast as water, but it is hidden, so it feels slower.

If you are not seeing any roots after a month, do not panic yet. Check that your cutting still looks healthy. The leaf should be firm, not yellowing or wilting. The stem should feel solid, not mushy. If everything looks okay, just wait longer. I once had a cutting that took six weeks to root in water during a cold, dark stretch in February. It eventually rooted fine. It just needed more time.

One thing that really speeds up rooting is humidity. Monsteras are tropical plants, and they love moisture in the air. If your home is dry (mine definitely is in winter), you can tent a plastic bag loosely over the cutting to trap humidity. Just make sure there is some airflow so it does not get swampy and gross.

Potting up your new Monstera cutting

Once your cutting has roots that are at least two to three inches long, it is ready to pot up. I used to pot them too early, when the roots were barely an inch, and they would stall out because the root system was not strong enough to support the plant yet.

For water-rooted cuttings, I prepare a small pot (usually four inches) with a well-draining potting mix. I make a little hole in the soil, gently lower the roots in, and firm the soil around the stem. Then I water it thoroughly. This first watering is important because it helps settle the soil around the delicate roots.

Here is where I made a mistake early on: I treated the freshly potted cutting like a fully established plant. I put it in my brightest window and watered it on my regular schedule. The poor thing wilted within days. Freshly potted cuttings need a transition period. They are adjusting to a new environment, and their roots are learning to pull moisture from soil instead of water.

For the first two weeks after potting, I keep the soil consistently moist (not soaking, just evenly damp) and place the plant in medium indirect light, not full blast. I also avoid fertilizing for at least a month. The roots are too fragile to handle nutrients yet, and the potting mix already contains some nutrition.

After a couple of weeks, I start letting the top inch of soil dry out between waterings, which is the normal routine for Monsteras. I gradually move it to brighter light as I see new growth starting.

For soil-propagated cuttings, the potting-up process is simpler. Once I confirm roots have developed, I either leave the cutting in the same container if it has room to grow, or I move it to a slightly larger pot using the same gentle process.

Tools and setup for the fix Above: The tools you need to fix this.

Preventing rot during propagation

Rot is the enemy. It is what killed my first attempt, and it is the most common problem people run into with Monstera cuttings.

Rot happens when the cutting sits in stagnant water or overly wet soil, creating an environment where bacteria and fungi thrive. In water propagation, the easiest way to prevent rot is to change the water frequently. I do it every three to four days. If I see the water getting cloudy or slimy, I change it immediately. Some people add a tiny piece of activated charcoal to the water to keep it fresh longer, though I have not tried that myself.

The cut end of the stem is the most vulnerable spot. When I take a cutting, I make sure the cut is clean, not jagged or torn. A clean cut heals faster and is less likely to invite infection. I also let the cut end dry for about an hour before putting it in water. This forms a callus that provides a little protection. The University of Minnesota Extension mentions that allowing cuts to callus can reduce the risk of pathogen entry, which makes sense to me.

In soil propagation, the danger is overwatering. I keep the soil moist, but I never let it get soggy. If water is pooling on the surface or the pot feels heavy for days, that is too much. I also make sure my pot has drainage holes. This seems obvious, but I have seen people try to propagate in containers without drainage, and it almost never works.

Another trick I learned is to use a clear container for water propagation. This lets me see if anything funky is growing in the water or on the roots. If I notice any sliminess or dark spots on the stem, I take the cutting out, rinse it under clean water, trim off any rotted parts with sterilized scissors, and put it in fresh water.

Temperature matters too. Rot develops faster in warm, stagnant conditions. I keep my cuttings in a spot with some air circulation. Not a drafty window, but also not a closed cabinet. Just normal room airflow.

If you do end up with rot, act fast. Cut away the affected area, going at least an inch above the rot into healthy tissue. Let the new cut dry and callus, then start over with fresh water or soil. I have saved cuttings this way more than once.

Propagating Monsteras is not hard once you understand the basics, but it does require a little attention and patience. The first time you see those white roots pushing out from a node, it feels like magic. Even now, after doing this dozens of times, I still get excited when a new cutting takes off.

References

University of Florida Environmental Horticulture Department. “Plant Propagation by Stem Cuttings: Instructions for the Home Gardener.”

North Carolina State University Extension. “Plant Propagation by Stem Cuttings.”

University of Georgia Extension. “Basic Principles of Propagation.”

University of Minnesota Extension. “Houseplant Propagation.”