Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) Guide

Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen) Guide

I bought my first Aglaonema on a whim at a Home Depot three years ago. It was labeled “Silver Bay,” had big silvery leaves with green edges, and cost twelve dollars. The tag said “low light tolerant,” which was code for “your dim apartment won’t kill this one.” I was skeptical because I had already murdered two pothos plants, but I took it home anyway.

That plant is still alive. It sits in my hallway where the only light comes from a window fifteen feet away, and it has never complained. Not once. If you are looking for a plant that will forgive your forgetfulness and survive in spaces that feel more like a cave than a living room, Aglaonema might be your best friend.

Chinese Evergreens come from the tropical forests of Southeast Asia, where they grow in the shade of bigger trees. That is why they are so good at handling low light. In the wild, they are used to filtered sunlight and warm, humid air. But here is the thing: they adapt really well to normal indoor conditions. You do not need a greenhouse or a fancy humidifier. You just need to understand a few basics, and they will grow without much drama.

Let me walk you through what I have learned from keeping these plants and from digging into research when things went sideways.

Best varieties for low light

Not all Aglaonemas are created equal when it comes to low light. The general rule is this: the more green on the leaves, the better it will do in dim spaces. Plants with a lot of pink, red, or white need more light to maintain those colors. If your apartment is dark, stick with varieties that have mostly green or silver foliage.

Silver Bay is probably the most common variety, and for good reason. It has broad leaves with a silvery center and dark green edges. I have had mine in a north-facing hallway for years, and it keeps pushing out new leaves. According to horticulturists at the University of Florida, Silver Bay is one of the most shade-tolerant varieties you can find. It is also less picky about humidity than some of the fancier types.

Emerald Beauty is another solid choice. The leaves are darker green with lighter green patterns. It is not as flashy as some of the pink or red varieties, but it handles low light like a champ. I picked one up last year for my bedroom, which only gets indirect light from a small window. It is doing fine.

If you want something a little more interesting but still tolerant of shade, look for Maria. It has silvery green leaves with darker edges and a bit more visual interest than Silver Bay. I have not personally owned this one, but my friend keeps hers in a bathroom with frosted glass, and it has been growing steadily for over a year.

Now, if your space has medium to bright indirect light, you have more options. Varieties like Red Siam, Valentine, or Pink Dalmatian have beautiful red and pink tones, but those colors will fade if the light is too low. I tried keeping a Red Siam in my living room once, and the pink turned to pale green within a few months. It was still healthy, just not as colorful. So if you want those vibrant hues, you need a spot near a window with filtered light.

The takeaway here is simple: match the plant to your light situation. Do not buy a bright pink Aglaonema if you live in a basement. Stick with green or silver, and you will have better results.

Watering Chinese Evergreens

Watering is where most people mess up, and I include myself in that group. Aglaonemas do not like to dry out completely, but they also hate sitting in water. Finding the balance takes some practice.

I water mine when the top inch or two of soil feels dry. I stick my finger into the pot up to the second knuckle. If it feels damp, I wait. If it feels dry, I water. This is not an exact science, and it depends on your home’s temperature and humidity. In the summer, I might water every seven to ten days. In the winter, it stretches to two weeks or more.

One thing I learned the hard way is that these plants do not need a strict schedule. I used to water every Sunday like clockwork, and that led to overwatering. The soil would still be moist from the previous week, but I would add more water anyway because it was “watering day.” That is a great way to rot the roots. Now I check the soil first, every time.

When you do water, water thoroughly. I take the plant to the sink, pour water over the soil until it runs out the bottom, and let it drain completely before putting it back in its spot. Do not let it sit in a saucer full of water. Aglaonemas are susceptible to root rot, and soggy soil is the main culprit.

Research from North Carolina State University Extension recommends allowing the top layer of soil to dry between waterings, especially in cooler months when the plant is not actively growing. Overwatering during winter is one of the most common mistakes because the plant uses less water when it is not putting out new leaves.

If you tend to forget about your plants, Aglaonemas are forgiving. They can handle a bit of drought better than they can handle wet feet. I once forgot to water my Silver Bay for almost three weeks, and it was fine. The leaves drooped a little, but they perked back up after a good soak.

One last thing: use room temperature water. I used to water straight from the tap with cold water, and I noticed some browning on the leaf tips. Switching to water that had been sitting out for a few hours helped. It is a small detail, but it made a difference.

Above: A close up look at the symptoms.

Why leaves turn yellow

Yellow leaves are probably the most common issue people run into with Aglaonemas, and there are a few different causes. The tricky part is figuring out which one applies to your plant.

Overwatering is the most frequent reason. When the roots sit in soggy soil, they cannot get enough oxygen, and they start to rot. The plant responds by dropping leaves, and those leaves usually turn yellow first. If the yellowing starts with the lower, older leaves and the soil feels wet all the time, overwatering is likely the problem. Cut back on watering and make sure the pot has drainage holes.

Underwatering can also cause yellow leaves, but the pattern is different. When a plant is too dry for too long, the leaves turn yellow and crispy at the edges. The soil will be bone dry, and the plant might look droopy overall. If this is the case, water more frequently and make sure the water is reaching the roots.

Sometimes yellow leaves are just old age. Aglaonemas naturally shed their lower leaves as they grow. If only one or two older leaves at the bottom are turning yellow and the rest of the plant looks healthy, it is probably just normal turnover. I used to panic every time I saw a yellow leaf, but now I only worry if multiple leaves are affected or if new leaves are turning yellow.

Cold drafts can also cause yellowing. Aglaonemas prefer temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If your plant is near a drafty window or an air conditioning vent, it might be stressed. I had one sitting too close to a window in the winter, and the cold air coming through the glass caused some yellowing. Moving it a few feet away solved the problem.

Nutrient deficiency is less common, but it can happen. If your plant has been in the same soil for years without any fertilizer, it might be running out of nutrients. I fertilize mine with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength once a month during the growing season (spring and summer). In the fall and winter, I do not fertilize at all because the plant is not actively growing.

According to the Missouri Botanical Garden, Aglaonemas are not heavy feeders, so you do not need to go overboard with fertilizer. Too much can actually cause brown tips and leaf damage.

Aglaonema flowers: Keep or cut?

This is a question I did not expect to face until my Silver Bay surprised me with a flower spike last spring. It looked like a small white spathe, similar to a peace lily flower but less dramatic. I had no idea what to do with it.

Aglaonema flowers are not showy. They are usually green or white and kind of blend in with the foliage. The plant produces them when it is happy and mature, so in a way, it is a good sign. But here is the thing: flowering takes energy. Some growers recommend cutting the flowers off so the plant can focus on producing new leaves instead.

I left the first flower on my plant because I was curious. It lasted for a few weeks, turned brown, and then I cut it off. I did not notice any negative impact on the plant’s growth. The next time it flowered, I cut the spike off as soon as I saw it. The plant kept growing either way.

If you care more about foliage than flowers, go ahead and snip the flower spike at the base. If you want to see what it looks like, leave it. Honestly, it does not make a huge difference for the overall health of the plant. I have read opinions from hobbyists on both sides of this debate, and there is no consensus. Do what feels right to you.

One thing to note: if you leave the flower and it gets pollinated (which is unlikely indoors), it can produce berries. The berries are toxic, so if you have pets or kids, that is a reason to cut the flowers off early.

Above: The tools you need to fix this.

Soil mix recommendations

Aglaonemas are not picky about soil, but they do need good drainage. I learned this after keeping one in regular potting soil for too long. The soil stayed wet for days after watering, and I started seeing yellow leaves. Switching to a lighter mix fixed the problem.

I use a mix of standard potting soil, perlite, and a bit of orchid bark. The ratio is roughly 60 percent potting soil, 30 percent perlite, and 10 percent bark. This creates enough air pockets so the roots do not sit in water, but it still holds moisture long enough for the plant to absorb what it needs.

You can also buy a commercial aroid mix or a mix labeled for tropical plants. Those usually have similar ingredients and work well. The key is that the soil should drain within a few seconds when you water. If water pools on the surface, the mix is too dense.

Some people add coconut coir to the mix for extra moisture retention. I tried this once, and it worked fine, but I did not notice a big difference compared to using perlite and bark. If your home is very dry, coir might help. If your home is humid or you tend to overwater, skip it.

Avoid heavy garden soil or anything that clumps together when wet. Aglaonemas like their roots to breathe, and compacted soil will cause problems over time.

I repot my plants every two to three years, usually in the spring. I only go up one pot size because Aglaonemas do not mind being slightly root-bound. If the roots are circling the bottom of the pot or growing out of the drainage holes, it is time to repot. Otherwise, I leave them alone.

According to the University of Georgia Extension, using a well-draining potting mix is one of the most important factors in preventing root rot, which is the leading cause of death for Aglaonemas in home settings.

If you are new to mixing your own soil, start simple. Buy a bag of perlite, add about one part perlite to two parts regular potting mix, and see how it goes. You can always adjust from there.

I hope this helps you keep your Chinese Evergreen alive and happy. These plants are forgiving, adaptable, and perfect for people who do not have a lot of natural light. Start with a green or silver variety, water only when the soil is dry, and use a well-draining mix. That is really all you need to know.

References

University of Florida IFAS Extension. “Aglaonema Production Guide.”

North Carolina State University Extension. “Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen).”

Missouri Botanical Garden. “Aglaonema commutatum.”

University of Georgia Extension. “Growing Indoor Plants with Success.”