The Ultimate Monstera Deliciosa Care Guide

The Ultimate Monstera Deliciosa Care Guide

I bought my first Monstera deliciosa three years ago from a local nursery, and honestly, I had no idea what I was doing. The plant came with a single fenestrated leaf and cost me forty dollars, which felt like a lot at the time. I put it in the corner of my living room, watered it when I remembered, and hoped for the best.

That first leaf turned yellow within two weeks.

I panicked, repotted it, moved it closer to the window, then farther away, then watered it more, then less. Looking back, I was doing everything wrong because I was trying to fix problems I didn’t understand. After months of research and a lot of trial and error, my Monstera finally started putting out those big, gorgeous split leaves everyone talks about. Now it takes up half my living room, and people always ask how I got it to look so healthy.

If you just brought one of these plants home, or if yours is struggling like mine was, this guide will walk you through exactly what I’ve learned. No fluff, just the practical stuff that actually works.

Finding the perfect light for massive leaves

Light is the single most important factor for getting those huge, fenestrated leaves. I learned this the hard way when my Monstera spent six months in medium light and only gave me small, barely split leaves. The moment I moved it closer to my east-facing window, the new growth exploded in size.

Monsteras grow naturally in the rainforests of Central America, where they climb up trees to reach brighter light. According to research from the University of Florida’s IFAS Extension, they thrive in bright, indirect light but can tolerate lower light conditions. The catch is that lower light means smaller leaves with fewer splits.

Here’s what I’ve observed with my own plant. In my apartment, I have an east-facing window that gets direct morning sun for about two hours. I keep my Monstera about three feet away from that window. The morning sun is gentle enough that it doesn’t burn the leaves, but it’s bright enough to fuel strong growth. When I had it in the corner of the room, about eight feet from any window, it survived but didn’t thrive.

If you only have north-facing windows like my friend Sarah, your Monstera will grow, but slowly. Sarah’s plant puts out maybe one leaf every two months, and they’re noticeably smaller than mine. She’s considering a grow light, which the Missouri Botanical Garden mentions can supplement natural light effectively.

South and west-facing windows can work, but you need to be careful about direct sun. I tried putting my plant in front of my west window once during summer, and within three days, I had brown, crispy patches on the leaves. That’s sunburn, and it doesn’t heal. Those damaged leaves stayed ugly until I eventually cut them off months later.

The trick is watching how your plant responds. New leaves should unfurl large and develop splits (fenestrations) relatively quickly. If your new leaves are coming in small and without many splits, that’s your plant telling you it needs more light. Move it closer to the window, maybe a foot at a time, and give it a few weeks to adjust before moving it again.

One more thing about light: rotate your plant every week or two. Monsteras will grow toward the light source, and if you don’t rotate them, they end up lopsided. I set a reminder on my phone every Sunday to turn mine a quarter turn. It keeps the growth even and prevents it from leaning dramatically to one side.

The ‘Soak and Dry’ watering schedule

Watering killed my first Monstera leaf, and I’m pretty sure overwatering is the number one killer of these plants. I was watering mine every week like clockwork, which turned out to be way too much for the pot size and soil mix I was using.

The soak and dry method changed everything for me. Here’s how it works. You let the soil dry out significantly between waterings, then when you do water, you drench it completely until water runs out the drainage holes. Then you wait again until it dries out. No small sips, no misting the top inch of soil. Just a proper soak, then patience.

The question everyone asks is how long to wait between waterings. For me, it’s usually 7 to 10 days in summer and closer to 14 days in winter. But that’s specific to my apartment’s humidity, my pot size, and my soil mix. You need to check your own plant.

I use the finger test. Stick your finger into the soil about two inches down. If it feels damp or cool, don’t water yet. If it feels dry, it’s time. I also pick up my pot before watering to feel how heavy it is, then pick it up after watering. Over time, you learn the difference between a thirsty plant (light pot) and a recently watered one (heavy pot). According to Ohio State University Extension, this weight method is actually more reliable than moisture meters, which can give false readings.

When I do water, I take my Monstera to the bathtub. I run room temperature water through the soil until it pours out the bottom for at least 30 seconds. This flushes out any salt buildup and ensures the entire root ball gets moisture, not just the top layer. Then I let it drain completely before putting it back in its decorative pot. Sitting in water is a death sentence for these plants.

Signs you’re overwatering include yellow leaves (especially older, lower leaves), soil that stays wet for weeks, and a funky smell coming from the pot. If you see this, pull back on watering immediately. Signs you’re underwatering include brown, crispy leaf edges and leaves that curl inward. I’ve dealt with both, and honestly, underwatering is easier to fix.

Above: A close up look at the symptoms.

Choosing the right chunky soil mix

Regular potting soil is too dense for Monsteras. I used standard Miracle-Gro potting mix when I first got mine, and the soil stayed soggy for way too long after watering. Monsteras are actually semi-epiphytic in nature, which means in the wild, they often grow on other plants and trees with their roots exposed to air. They need soil that drains fast and has air pockets.

I make my own mix now, and it’s dead simple. I use about 40% regular potting soil, 30% orchid bark (the chunky kind), 20% perlite, and 10% worm castings. You can buy all of this at any garden center. The orchid bark and perlite create air pockets and help water drain through quickly. The worm castings add slow-release nutrients without being too strong.

If making your own mix sounds like too much work, look for bags labeled “aroid mix” or “monstera mix” at plant shops. These are pre-made with similar ingredients. I’ve used the mix from a company called Perfect Plants before, and it worked well.

The North Carolina State Extension notes that well-draining soil is critical for preventing root rot in Monsteras. When I repot (usually every 18 to 24 months), I can see the difference between healthy white roots in chunky soil versus the dark, mushy roots I had in dense soil.

You’ll know your soil is working if it dries out within a week or two after watering. If it’s staying wet for three weeks or more, your mix is probably too dense. That’s when I add more perlite or bark to open it up.

Staking your Monstera on a moss pole

This is the part that intimidated me for the longest time, but it’s honestly one of the best things I did for my plant. In the wild, Monsteras climb up trees. Their aerial roots attach to the bark and pull the plant upward. When you give your Monstera something to climb, the leaves get bigger and develop more splits. It’s not just for looks.

I avoided staking for the first year because I thought it looked complicated. My Monstera sprawled sideways across my floor, and the leaves stayed medium-sized. When I finally added a moss pole, the next three leaves that came out were noticeably larger.

I use a coir (coconut fiber) pole because it’s sturdier than sphagnum moss poles and lasts longer. I bought a 24-inch pole from Amazon for about fifteen dollars. You can also use a wooden plank or a PVC pipe wrapped in coir, but the pre-made poles are easier.

Here’s how I installed mine. I pushed the pole into the soil right next to the main stem, going as deep as possible for stability. Then I used soft plant ties (the green stretchy kind) to gently attach the stem to the pole. I didn’t tie it tight because the stem needs room to grow. I just secured it enough to keep it upright.

As new leaves grow, I guide the stem toward the pole and add new ties every few inches. The aerial roots will eventually grip the pole on their own, but that takes months. In the meantime, the ties keep everything stable.

I keep the moss pole slightly damp by spraying it with water every few days. According to research from the University of Georgia Extension, keeping the pole moist encourages the aerial roots to attach. I’ve seen this work. My aerial roots have started wrapping around the pole and anchoring themselves.

If your Monstera is already big and floppy, you might need to prune it back a bit before staking. I cut off one long vine that was dragging on the floor and propagated it in water. It rooted within three weeks, and now I have a second plant.

Above: The tools you need to fix this.

How to clean dust off the leaves

This seems like a small thing, but dusty leaves actually hurt your plant. Dust blocks light from reaching the leaf surface, which means less photosynthesis and slower growth. My Monstera sits near a vent, so it gets dusty faster than my other plants.

I clean my Monstera leaves every two to three weeks. I used to use leaf shine products, but those leave a weird residue and can actually clog the pores on the leaves. Now I just use a damp microfiber cloth and plain water.

I support each leaf with one hand underneath and gently wipe the top surface with the damp cloth. For big leaves, I might need to wipe each section, moving from the center vein outward. I also wipe the undersides because dust and sometimes pests hide there.

If my plant is really dusty, I’ll take it to the shower and rinse it off with lukewarm water. I keep the water pressure gentle so I don’t damage the leaves. Then I let it drip dry in the tub before moving it back to its spot.

According to Cornell University’s horticulture program, clean leaves are healthier leaves. They photosynthesize better, and you’re more likely to spot pests early when you’re handling your plant regularly. I’ve caught spider mites twice by noticing tiny webs on the undersides of leaves during cleaning.

Some people use milk or banana peels to shine their leaves. I tried the milk trick once, and it just made my leaves sticky and attracted gnats. Stick with water. Your plant doesn’t need to look shiny, it just needs to be clean.

I know Monstera care can feel overwhelming at first. I spent months stressing about mine before I figured out what it actually needed. But once you get the light right, nail the watering rhythm, use chunky soil, and give it something to climb, these plants practically take care of themselves. Mine has tripled in size, and I’ve propagated enough cuttings to give them to half my friends. If my first sad, yellow-leafed attempt could turn into this, yours absolutely can too.

References

University of Florida IFAS Extension. “Monstera deliciosa: Swiss Cheese Plant.” Environmental Horticulture Department. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/

Missouri Botanical Garden. “Monstera deliciosa.” Plant Finder Database. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/

Ohio State University Extension. “Houseplant Care: Watering.” Department of Horticulture and Crop Science.

North Carolina State Extension. “Monstera deliciosa.” NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/

University of Georgia Extension. “Growing Indoor Plants with Success.” Cooperative Extension Service.

Cornell University Department of Horticulture. “Indoor Plant Care.” Cornell Cooperative Extension.