Snake Plant Care: The Unkillable Houseplant

Snake Plant Care: The Unkillable Houseplant

I killed my first snake plant.

I know, I know. Everyone says they’re impossible to kill, but I managed it. I watered it every few days because I thought I was being a good plant parent. Turns out, I loved it to death. The leaves turned yellow and mushy at the base, and within a month, the whole thing collapsed into a soggy mess.

That was five years ago. Now I have three snake plants scattered around my apartment, and they’re thriving because I basically ignore them. If you’ve ever felt like houseplants just aren’t for you, the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata, though botanists recently reclassified it as Dracaena trifasciata) might change your mind. This thing survives on benign neglect, which makes it perfect for busy people, forgetful waterers, or anyone who travels a lot.

Let me walk you through what I’ve learned, mostly through trial and error.

Why Snake Plants thrive on neglect

Snake plants originally come from West Africa, specifically rocky, dry regions where rain is inconsistent and the soil drains fast. In their natural habitat, they’re used to long periods of drought followed by occasional downpours. Their thick, upright leaves store water like little reservoirs, which means they can go weeks (sometimes months) without a drink.

This is why your well-meaning attention can actually hurt them. When I watered my first snake plant multiple times a week, I was essentially drowning a desert plant. The roots sat in wet soil, started to rot, and the whole plant gave up.

According to research from North Carolina State University Extension, snake plants have adapted to survive in low-nutrient, low-water conditions by developing a thick cuticle on their leaves and a shallow but efficient root system. They’re built to wait things out.

The other reason they do well with neglect is light tolerance. Yes, they prefer bright indirect light and will grow faster in it. But I have one sitting in my hallway that gets maybe two hours of filtered light per day, and it’s been alive for three years. It hasn’t grown much, but it hasn’t died either. Compare that to my fiddle leaf fig, which threw a tantrum and dropped half its leaves when I moved it three feet to the left.

If your schedule is unpredictable or you’re gone for work trips, the snake plant won’t punish you for it. It just sits there, doing its thing, waiting patiently for you to remember it exists.

Watering: Less is definitely more

Here’s my current watering routine: I water my snake plants about once every three to four weeks in the summer, and once every five to six weeks in the winter. Sometimes I forget entirely for two months, and they’re fine.

The trick is to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Not just the top inch. I mean completely dry, all the way to the bottom of the pot. I usually stick my finger a few inches down into the soil, and if it feels even slightly damp, I wait another week.

When I do water, I give them a thorough soak. I take the plant to the sink, water it until water runs out the drainage holes, and then let it drain completely before putting it back on its saucer. This mimics the natural rainfall pattern they’d experience in the wild (a big soaking rain, then nothing for a while).

One thing I learned from the University of Florida IFAS Extension is that overwatering is the number one killer of snake plants. The roots are susceptible to rot, and once rot starts, it spreads fast. If you notice the leaves turning yellow or mushy at the base, or if they start to fall over when they were previously upright, you’ve probably been watering too much.

I also adjust my watering based on the season and the light conditions. My snake plant in the bright living room window dries out faster than the one in the dim hallway, so I check them individually rather than watering everything on the same schedule. In winter, when the air is drier but the plant isn’t actively growing, I cut back even more.

If you’re the type of person who likes a watering schedule, I’d say start with once a month and adjust from there. But honestly, these plants would rather you forget about them than fuss over them.

Above: A close up look at the symptoms.

Best soil mix for drainage

After my first snake plant disaster, I got serious about soil. Regular potting soil holds too much moisture for snake plants. You need something that drains fast and doesn’t stay soggy.

I make my own mix now, and it’s really simple. I use about 50% cactus and succulent soil, 30% regular potting soil, and 20% perlite or coarse sand. The cactus soil is already grittier and drains faster than standard potting mix, and the perlite adds extra drainage while keeping the soil airy.

If you don’t want to bother mixing your own, you can buy a pre-made cactus and succulent mix and call it a day. I’ve used Hoffman Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix before, and it works fine straight out of the bag.

The pot matters too. You absolutely need drainage holes. I don’t care how pretty that ceramic pot without holes is, don’t use it unless you’re willing to drill a hole in the bottom (which I’ve done, carefully, with a masonry bit). Without drainage, even the best soil will stay too wet.

I prefer terracotta pots for my snake plants because the clay is porous and helps wick moisture away from the roots. Plus, terracotta is heavier, which is helpful because tall snake plants can get top-heavy and tip over in lightweight plastic pots.

According to information from Iowa State University Extension, good drainage is critical for plants native to arid environments because their roots haven’t evolved to handle consistently wet conditions. The air pockets in a well-draining mix also help prevent anaerobic bacteria that cause root rot.

One more thing: don’t use a pot that’s too big. Snake plants actually like being a little root-bound, and a huge pot holds more soil, which holds more water. I usually go only one or two inches larger in diameter than the current pot when I repot.

Different Snake Plant varieties to collect

Once you successfully keep one snake plant alive, you’ll probably want more. There are dozens of varieties, and they all have slightly different looks.

The most common one is Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Laurentii’, which has dark green leaves with yellow edges. This is the classic snake plant you see everywhere, and it’s what I started with (after the first one I killed, I mean).

Then there’s ‘Black Gold’, which looks similar but has darker, almost black-green leaves with golden yellow margins. I have this one in my bedroom, and I like it because the contrast is sharper than the regular Laurentii.

If you want something more compact, ‘Hahnii’ (also called bird’s nest snake plant) grows in a rosette shape and stays low to the ground. I haven’t bought this one yet because I’m running out of shelf space, but I’ve seen it at my local nursery and it’s on my wish list.

‘Moonshine’ has pale, silvery-green leaves with minimal patterning. It’s more subtle than the striped varieties, and it looks really modern and clean. A friend of mine has one, and it’s gorgeous in bright light.

For something really different, there’s ‘Cylindrica’ (also called cylindrical snake plant or African spear). The leaves are round instead of flat, and they grow upright like spears. Some growers braid them, which looks cool but makes me nervous because I feel like I’d mess it up.

‘Whale Fin’ is another unusual one with wide, paddle-shaped leaves. Each plant usually has just one or two thick leaves that look like whale fins sticking up out of the soil. I’ve been eyeing these online, but they tend to be pricier than the standard varieties.

All of these varieties have basically the same care requirements (low water, decent drainage, tolerates low light), so you can treat them the same way. I like collecting different varieties because it keeps things interesting without adding complexity to my care routine.

Above: The tools you need to fix this.

Is the Snake Plant toxic to pets?

Yes, snake plants are toxic to cats and dogs.

This is important if you have pets that like to chew on plants. My cat mostly ignores my snake plants, but I know some cats are relentless nibblers. The plant contains saponins, which can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea if ingested. According to the ASPCA, it’s not usually life-threatening, but it can make your pet pretty miserable.

I keep my snake plants on high shelves and plant stands where my cat can’t easily reach them. If your pet is a determined climber or if you have a dog that likes to dig in pots, you might want to skip the snake plant entirely or keep it in a room your pet doesn’t access.

The symptoms usually show up within a few hours of ingestion. If you notice your pet drooling excessively, acting lethargic, or vomiting after being near your snake plant, call your vet. Bring a piece of the plant with you if you can, so they can confirm what your pet ate.

For what it’s worth, the toxicity level is considered mild to moderate. It’s not like a lily, which can cause kidney failure in cats. But mild or not, I’d rather not deal with a sick pet, so I just keep them out of reach.

If you’re looking for a similar low-maintenance plant that’s pet-safe, consider a spider plant or a parlor palm instead. But if you don’t have pets or if your pets leave your plants alone, the snake plant is still one of the easiest houseplants you can grow.

The biggest lesson I’ve learned from keeping snake plants is that sometimes the best thing you can do for a plant is leave it alone. Stop checking on it every day. Stop watering it every week. Let it dry out. Let it sit in the same spot for months without moving it. These plants don’t need you to fuss over them. They just need you to not kill them with kindness.

If I can keep these things alive (after drowning my first one), you definitely can too.

References

North Carolina State University Extension. “Sansevieria trifasciata.” NC State Extension Plants Database. https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/

University of Florida IFAS Extension. “Sansevieria: Snake Plant.” Environmental Horticulture Department. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/

Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. “Houseplant Care: Succulents and Cacti.” Horticulture and Home Pest News. https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. “Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List: Snake Plant.” https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants/snake-plant